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Ontinyent

The origin of the town is documented from the 11th century, in Arab times, when it was an important stop in the way from Murcia to Valencia. When it was conquered by the Christians in 1244, its municipal area was wide and covered different towns, such as Cabdet (until 1446), Agullent (until 1585), as well as the plot of the “Alforins”, which was granted by Jaime I (1256) and turned into town in 1927. Jaime I named it Vila Real (“Royal Town”)because of its cross-border nature.

The medieval quarter of Ontinyent suffered important urban alterations, mainly because of the devastating destruction produced by the earthquake of 1258, which obliged the population to rebuild walls and houses. At the beginning of the 15th century, Ontinyent was a very populated town. Without doubt, its remarkable location on a hill (359 metres above sea level), in comparison to its surroundings, is a sure sign of its demarcation and defensive function.

Ontinyent is bounded on the northwest by the river Clariano, where the old wall is used as a retaining wall. However, to the south there is the “Almaig” ravine, which was gradually filled with earth to make the expansion of the town easier.

It was in the 16th and 17th centuries when the process of moving outside the town was produced. This process was consolidated during the 18th century in the outskirts of San Miguel and Calle Mayor above all. Nowadays, the old part of the town is made up of a series of old houses on a very uneven area. That is the reason why the streets are steep. “La Vila”, an area surrounded by walls, crowns this part of the town, where you can find narrow streets, whitewashed houses with grey roofs, small squares, ancestral homes, dead-end roads, interesting and peaceful places, calm and tranquility.

The area of “La Vila”, declared Historic-Artistic Site in 1974, still has one of the most representative medieval collections of the Valencian region. We recommend you to visit it and enjoy the charm of its buildings, both civil and religious.

We will start the visit through the Portal de San Roque, the first Christian gate opened in 1256. In medieval times, the market took place in this square. It was a kind of souk or Moorish market. It is worth mentioning a house called “Casa de la Pala”, which has a shield with the bull of the Borja and the magnificent Palacio de la Villa or Palace of the Almodóvar duchess (13th-19th centuries). Today, this palace is being restored. It was probably built during the Almohad invasions (11th-12th centuries) and restored in Valencian Gothic style by Jaime II, who converted it in royal residence.

Santa Maria's Church (14th-16th centuries) was declared Historic National Monument in 1974. In 1258 an earthquake sped up the disappearance of the old building, located in the same site. There was planned the construction of a new church according to the canons of the 14th-15th centuries, in Valencian Gothic style. This church has been remodelled several times afterwards. Especially noteworthy are the door of the chapel, in Neoclassic style; the main door (1530), in plateresque style; the door with the sculpture of the Buen Pastor (15th century); the Virgen María' image (15th century) in the keystone of the vault; and the big baptismal font (17th century).

The most outstanding works one can find in the interior of the church are the original Gothic stoup; the altarpiece of the Anunciación (15th century), in flamenco style; the altarpiece by artist José Segrelles, which replaced the old Renaissance altarpiece disappeared during the Spanish Civil War; and some sculptures by Mariano Benlliure.

The belfry of Santa María was first built in 1689. It is the identifying element of the city. With more than 71 metres, this belfry is the highest of Valencian towers. It still has the oldest church bell of the entire region, called “Rauxa i Foc” (1563). We recommend you to visit the belfry on Sundays, after mass (12pm). From there you will see a wonderful outlook over the city, the region and the Sierra Mariola.

Sant Pere area is typical due to its dead ends, such as the “carreró de la pella” (“Paella dead end”). Other important places of this area are Sant Pere Square and Trinitat Street, which was called Barbacana street in the past. Later on, this street was considered the most important of the Vila area. There you can find the main door of the House of Culture (18th century) and the carpenter's workshop of Barberá. Both are protected buildings since this quarter was declared National Historic Site in 1974.

Muralla street (“Walls Street”) is known with this name because it is located in the walled place. This street is also known as “Arbellons” (“sewers”) because there was a sewer underneath it which collected the rainwater and threw it to the river through a hole on the wall.

Callarís is a narrow, steep street. It is one of the most typical medieval streets of the area and it is thought that the Jewish community of Ontinyent lived there. In the crossroads between Cordellat and Trinitat has been recently discovered a medieval kiln which is now being restored.

The Hospital Beneficencia and the old Washing Place is in Mirador street (“Viewpoint street”). This street was given this name because from this place you can see the entire region of La Vall d'Albaida. Especially noteworthy are the Arch of the Ángel Custodio and Roses (or Hams) street.

We leave the area of La Vila and go to the Plaza Mayor, agora and stage of all social, political and religious events. This is the reason why here you can find the most relevant buildings. Its original structure was not so different as the present one, except for the disappearance of the porches which surrounded almost the entire square. Nowadays, there are still some remains of these porches to the left of the Town Hall and remains of Renaissance decoration from the 16th century.

The Casa de la Vila (“House of the Town”) was built in the middle of the 16th century in front of the old wall to house the local institution called “consejo”. At the end of the 16th century a new building called “Llotgeta del Mostassaf” was added. This was the name of a post established by Jaime I in order to inspect the sale of goods, the surveillance of the streets, etc. The façade is decorated with Ionic columns and allegorical figures, and was restored in the 18th century.

Opposite the Casa de la Vila we can find the Palace of Count Torrefiel (15th-18th centuries), the current seat of the Town Hall. In the past, it was the old mansion of Marquess Colomer. It still has a Gothic structure with remarkable elements, such as the decorative stairs of carved stone. These stairs lead us to the noble floor, where there is a splendid door of Gothic stone (beginning of the 16th century) with the coat of arms of the Lords.

Nowadays, the Museo Arqueológico de Ontinyent y de la Vall d’Albaida (Archaeological Museum of Ontinyent and the region of La Vall d’Albaida) is built on the site of the old Almudin (17th-19th centuries) and the old Courts.

Finally, we recommend you the visit to the following places: the convent of the Monjas Carmelitas (16th century); the Plaça de Baix or “Nova” (a small square); the Museum of Moors and Christians Festival; and the Pont Vell (an old bridge from the 16th century). We also invite you to go for a walk through the Calle Mayor, where you can find different ancestral homes and churches built from the 16th to the 19th centuries.